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1 hourThe University of Salamanca preserves a valuable historical heritage composed of emblematic buildings and spaces that are still in use and receive hundreds of visitors every day, either for their artistic and historical interest or for their academic activities. Among them, the Escuelas Mayores building stands out, with its famous Plateresque facade. Inside, the old classrooms dedicated to relevant figures of the institution —such as Unamuno, Fray Luis de León or Francisco de Vitoria—, the General Historical Library, the Paraninfo (Assembly Hall), the Chapel of San Jerónimo and the staircase with its enigmatic reliefs are preserved.
The origins of the University of Salamanca date back to 1218, when King Alfonso IX of León founded the Estudio General del Reino de León (General Study of the Kingdom of León) in Salamanca, the seed of what is today the oldest university in Spain. In the mid-13th century, Pope Alexander IV recognized the universal validity of the degrees granted by the institution and granted it the privilege of using pontifical symbols as its own seal.
During its first two centuries, the University taught in the cloister of the Old Cathedral and in various rented buildings in its surroundings. It was not until the 15th century that it began to have its own facilities, including the Escuelas Mayores, the Hospital del Estudio —now the Rectorate— and the Escuelas Menores. The opening of the Patio de Escuelas in the 17th century completed the configuration of one of Salamanca's most emblematic spaces, known as the City of Knowledge.
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The Escuelas Mayores constitute a space where history, art, and institutional life coexist. Although classes are no longer taught in its classrooms, the building remains fully active as a venue for academic events, ceremonies, courses, seminars, and conferences, keeping its university function alive in an environment of extraordinary heritage value.
The University of Salamanca is the oldest continuously operating university institution in the Hispanic world. It was founded in 1218 as a General Study of the Kingdom of León by King Alfonso IX. His son, Ferdinand III the Saint, confirmed this decision in 1243, and in subsequent decades the institution consolidated its prestige thanks to the support of various kings and popes. Particularly noteworthy are the privilege granted by Alfonso X in 1254, which regulated its organization and financing, and the bulls of Pope Alexander IV in 1255, which granted universal validity to its degrees.
For almost two centuries, teaching activity took place in provisional spaces, such as the cloister of the Old Cathedral, nearby churches, and various houses in the urban environment. It was not until the beginning of the 15th century that the University promoted the construction of its own buildings. The starting point came in 1411, when Pope Benedict XIII ordered the erection of adequate facilities for the different disciplines. From this impulse arose the main historic buildings of the complex: the Escuelas Mayores, the Escuelas Menores, and the Hospital for poor students.
The building of the Escuelas Mayores was erected next to the Cathedral and from the outset adopted a quadrangular plan organized around a central courtyard. Classrooms and the chapel were distributed within it. Originally it had only one floor and two main accesses: the Fachada de las Cadenas, to the east, and the now celebrated Plateresque facade or Rich Facade, to the west, which became one of the great symbols of the Spanish Renaissance.
The first construction phases took place between 1415 and 1452, consolidating the building's structure and even delimiting its space with a crenellated wall. From then on, key interventions followed that shaped its current appearance. Among them are the creation of the first large library (1474–1479), a work by masters Yuça and Abrayme, decorated with Fernando Gallego's celebrated Cielo de Salamanca; the renovation of the Chapel of San Jerónimo (1503–1510), with sculptures by Felipe Bigarny and Gil de Ronza and paintings by Juan de Flandes; the construction of the monumental staircase with its enigmatic reliefs; and, above all, the creation of the Rich Facade (1519–1528), an authentic emblem of the University.
In the 18th century, new far-reaching reforms were undertaken. Andrés García de Quiñones rebuilt the library after its destruction in 1664 and added a new vault, while Simón Gavilán Tomé reformed the Chapel of San Jerónimo, incorporating a large altarpiece of marbles and jaspers and concealing the old Cielo de Salamanca. In 1791, the Salón de Claustros, an essential space for academic life, was also intervened, following Lesmes Gabilán Sierra's project.
The last major transformation took place between 1875 and 1879, during the rectorship of Mamés Esperabé Lozano. The architect José Secall carried out a decisive expansion: the eclectic-classicist style eastern facade was built, and the upper cloister galleries were completed with mixtilinear arches, shaping the current appearance of the complex.
The Patio de Escuelas (School Courtyard) was created in the 17th century as part of a project promoted by Philip III to open a large square that would give visibility and unity to the university buildings. Designed by Pedro Gutiérrez in 1609 and completed in 1622, the plan included eleven three-story houses —although not all were built as planned— and transformed this space into the heart of the so-called City of Knowledge.
The main historic buildings of the University of Salamanca overlook the courtyard: to the east, the Escuelas Mayores (Major Schools) with their famous Plateresque façade; to the south, the Hospital del Estudio, now the Rectorate; and in the southwest corner, the door leading to the Patio de Escuelas Menores (Minor Schools Courtyard), where the famous Cielo de Salamanca (Sky of Salamanca) is preserved, a 15th-century mural painting representing the firmament in mythological form.
In the center of the courtyard, since 1869, stands the statue of Fray Luis de León, a work by Nicasio Sevilla, placed on a pedestal decorated with allegories of poetry.
Before entering the Escuelas Mayores, the magnificent Plateresque façade stands out, a true filigree carved in Villamayor stone. Its iconography combines symbols of the Catholic Monarchs, Emperor Charles V, and the papacy, reflecting the support these institutions provided to the Salamanca Study. Organized as a large altarpiece in three sections, it shows the Catholic Monarchs united by a scepter in the lower part; Emperor Charles V's imperial coat of arms in the central part; and the figure of the Pope under pontifical symbols in the upper part. On one of its pilasters appears the famous frog, which over time has become a good luck charm for students.
THE INTERIOR OF THE BUILDING The musealization of the building's interior aims to show visitors the historical relevance of the University of Salamanca through the symbolism of its classrooms and the experiences of the professors and students who have occupied them throughout the centuries. During the tour, various information points and audiovisual resources offer context and explanations about each of the spaces. In the entrance hall, two Gothic ribbed vaults stand out, whose central keystone exhibits, respectively, the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs and the seal of the University.
The cloister is quadrangular, with 22 arches on each of its floors. Semicircular arches in the lower galleries and ogee or mixtilinear arches in the upper ones. The four bays of the lower cloister are covered by beautiful Mudejar-inspired ceilings. The old “generales” or classrooms open onto these galleries, their doors still retaining the slate plaques that, through colors and inscriptions, indicate the subject taught in each one. Next to each door, a sign in red letters commemorates some of the professors who taught in those spaces. In the center of the courtyard stands the centenary Californian sequoia, planted in the 19th century.
The tour begins in the general of Eloquence, dedicated to Dorado Montero. Inside, a bronze plaque, chiseled by Benlliure, commemorates the prestigious professor of Criminal Law at the University of Salamanca from 1892-1919. In the wardrobes are the robes that the university lends to its doctors for ceremonial acts.
The Miguel de Unamuno Classroom was one of the classrooms where Canon Law was taught, one of the four «Major Faculties» of the University, along with Civil Law, Theology, and Medicine. The classroom is dedicated to one of the universal figures of the University of Salamanca, Miguel de Unamuno, professor of Greek since 1891 and several times rector of this University.
The inscription located above the first door of the north wing informs us that we are entering the general of Theology, dedicated to Fray Luis de León. Despite its simple architecture, it is the most emblematic classroom of the University; its atmosphere transports us to the 16th century, with its rough wooden benches covered with engravings made by students who once frequented theology classes there. It is presided over by the professorial chair with its sounding board, from which Fray Luis uttered his famous «decíamos ayer» (as we were saying yesterday) when he resumed his teaching duties after spending years in inquisitorial prison.
The Paraninfo (Assembly Hall) was originally the general chair of Canon Law, as indicated by the inscription preserved above the door, located under the papal coat of arms with the tiara, pontifical keys, and the crescent moon of Pedro de Luna (Benedict XIII). The hall is presided over by a large canopy sheltering a purple banner of remarkable artistic and historical value, donated by Prince Juan —son of the Catholic Monarchs— to the students of Salamanca during the period when he was a student and Lord of the city. On its walls are distributed several 17th-century Brussels tapestries with mythological scenes. On the north wall, a portrait of King Charles IV, from Goya's workshop and reproduced from the original preserved in the Prado Museum, stands out, as does a grisaille representing the Catholic Monarchs. On October 12, 1936, this hall was the scene of the famous confrontation between Miguel de Unamuno and General Millán Astray, an episode that left the rector's famous phrase for history: «You will conquer, but you will not convince». Currently, the Paraninfo hosts the most solemn academic events of the University.
The General of Medicine, with complements of astronomy and philosophy, is dedicated to the Dominican Francisco de Vitoria, professor of theology at the University of Salamanca from 1526 until his death in 1546. The north wall is occupied by a large projection of the Francisco de Vitoria Room at the United Nations headquarters in Geneva, which pays homage to the First School of Salamanca and the defense that the professors of that school made of the rights of indigenous Americans, the germ of Human Rights.
In the center of the eastern bay is the entrance hall that connects the cloister with the Plaza de Anaya, covered with a magnificent polychrome Mudejar armor (ceiling structure).
The Civil Law classroom, as alluded to by the plaque located above the door lintel, is today known as the «Column Room» due to the column located in the center of the room. After being used as a sacred art museum, it now hosts temporary exhibitions that, with different themes, showcase the bibliographic holdings of the Historic Library.
Past the glass door through which one exits the building, the plaque located above the next door reminds us that ancient languages were taught there: Greek, Hebrew, Chaldean, or Arabic. Today it provides access to the elevator and restrooms.
Royal Chapel of San Jerónimo Classical historiography indicates the existence of two chapels prior to the current one. The first, built at the beginning of the 15th century, was located in the east wing, where the entrance hall from Plaza de Anaya is today.
The second chapel was built in the time of the Catholic Monarchs in the same location as the current chapel. It shared space with the library, situated above it, for which Fernando Gallego painted the famous Cielo de Salamanca. In 1506, the library was moved, the chapel was reformed, and a new altarpiece was installed, which involved dismantling the coffered ceiling that covered it and revealing the Cielo de Salamanca, which covered the chapel well into the 18th century. It had a valuable altarpiece that combined sculptures by Felipe Bigarny and paintings by Juan de Flandes, some of which are still preserved today in the Escuelas Menores, in the Cielo de Salamanca room.
During the reform carried out between 1761 and 1767, part of the old celestial vault collapsed, and it was decided to build a new one at a lower level, which hid the Cielo de Salamanca for centuries. In that same intervention, the 16th-century wooden altarpiece was replaced by the current one, made of marbles and jaspers. In the lower body of the altarpiece, three canvases by the painter Francisco Cacciániga stand out: in the center, the oath of the University professors to defend the Mystery of the Immaculate Conception; on the left, Saint John of Sahagún in the Miracle of the Yellow Well; and on the right, Saint Thomas of Villanueva assisting the poor. The upper body features a gilded bronze relief with the figure of Saint Jerome, flanked by two canvases representing Saint Augustine and Saint Thomas Aquinas. The ensemble is crowned by a calvary created by Antonio González Ruiz.
In the niche of the right wall is a black and white marble urn that holds the remains of Fray Luis de León. It was made at the end of the 19th century by the sculptor Nicasio Sevilla, also the author of the monument dedicated to the poet in the Patio de Escuelas.
Before leaving the chapel, the Honoris Causa Doctor's Diploma awarded to Saint Teresa in 1922 can be seen on the east wall.
Religious ceremonies are held in this space during Holy Week, in which music plays a prominent role. University students, professors, and staff members of the institution also have the privilege of being able to get married in this chapel.
Past the staircase is the Civil Law classroom. Today it is dedicated to the celebrated musician Francisco de Salinas, professor of music at the University of Salamanca between 1567 and 1590, considered one of the main theorists of Spanish Renaissance music. It is used for music lessons, concerts, and lecture series. Three portraits of Queens -Anne of Austria, wife of Philip II, Margaret of Austria, wife of Philip III, and Isabella of Bourbon, wife of King Philip IV- and two tapestries with scenes from the history of Aeneas decorate the room.
Staircase The staircase leading to the upper floor is a unique piece in Spanish art and holds deep symbolism. Its three sections represent the different stages of human life and the ascent towards moral and spiritual perfection, overcoming the dangers inherent in each phase. The first two sections are inspired by late 15th-century engravings by the artist Van Meckenem. The first section alludes to youth, characterized by a joyous and licentious life. Around a free-living lady, a jester, and a bagpiper, several minstrels dance with ribbons and bells on their feet and hands. This is the Morisco Dance, a widely disseminated and represented theme in numerous engravings of the time. The second section introduces us to maturity, the stage of choice and commitment. The scene is clearly divided into two: good, symbolized by the bee, and evil, represented by the spider. The last scene shows a cavalcade in which four knights ascend towards the figure located on the fourth pilaster: a young man offering his heart. This image symbolizes the triumph of the man who has known how to master his passions to achieve the supreme Good. At that time, chivalry and its spirit constituted the highest moral ideal. The goal of the knights is Amicitia, the supreme Good, pure Love, God, embodied in the figure of the fourth pilaster.
THE UPPER CLOISTER In the upper cloister, first, is the western gallery, where the Historic Library is located. This space was built at the beginning of the 16th century to house the second university library, while the other three upper galleries were added in the 19th century.
The gallery presents an interesting combination of styles: it is covered by a magnificent chestnut wood ceiling that fuses elements of Mudejar tradition and Italian influences, and its windows display the characteristic mixtilinear arches typical of Salmantine architecture. On the back wall, pictorial representations of two saints can be seen, accompanied by inscriptions alluding to venereal diseases that warned students about the risks of leading a disordered life.
The Library The Historic Library of the University of Salamanca has its roots in the 13th century, coinciding with the founding of the Salamanca Study. Alfonso X included in his Magna Carta the figure of the Stationarius, responsible for guarding and providing books for consultation. However, the first documented library dates from the 15th century; it was located above the chapel and was covered with the astrological paintings now known as the Cielo de Salamanca.
The second library was built at the beginning of the 16th century in the western gallery of the upper cloister. The finely carved late Gothic style door and a magnificent grille with Plateresque decoration are preserved from it.
In 1664, the collapse of the vault left the University almost a century without a stable space for its library. It was not until 1749 that the current room was rebuilt, with its characteristic vault and the pine shelves designed by Manuel de Larra Churriguera. The collections are organized in double-tiered shelves, topped by large medallions with inscriptions indicating the content of each section. Inside is the manuscript and incunabula chamber, which today holds 2,805 manuscripts —the oldest from the 11th century— and 485 incunabula. In the general room, more than 60,000 printed works from the 16th century to 1830 are kept, mostly from the Society of Jesus College in Salamanca, from old colleges and convents, as well as from legacies and acquisitions made by the University throughout its eight hundred years of history.
Expansion of the upper cloister The remaining three galleries of the upper cloister were built in the 19th century next to the Salón de Claustros (Cloister Hall). They display facsimiles, reproductions of old maps, and objects used in botany and biology practices. Among the most curious objects is a wooden mannequin that was used for bandaging practices from the 16th century until the early 20th century.